Every
dedicated surfer develops an intimate relationship with the ocean
and knows that no two waves are the same. With this in mind a surfer will
utilize any opportunity that a wave offers. Hanging over the front of your
board on a sizeable wave is simply not as easy as it looks. Some however,
have no regards for the impossible and are sometimes regarded as either
good surfers or insane. Either way, you can bet that they are having a good
time, second only to blood on their hands.
Memories like this one last a long time with fond regards
The
times I've been suspended in the area between the wave face and the pitching
lip of the wave as it breaks, have been my most memorable surfing experiences.
The tube is actually a tunnel of water, and a tube ride is like standing
obscured from view behind a waterfall. When you are surfing well enough
to turn where you want and end up in the right position to trim down the
fall line, sooner or later you will 'get tubed' whether by accident or design.
Pretty neat eh!
This is one of the most sought after positions on the wave, a position that
requires talent and skill
Many of the best surfing areas in Australia are accessible by road, but many aren't which makes them even better when you do find them. The boys from OB are seen here enjoying the waves at Pelican Beach, first break south of Soldiers Beach which at the time was accessed by a pot-holed, washed out track. Now there is a boom gate that closes the road in between sunset and sunrise. On the right we have Colin Wall tucking underneath the curl and enjoying a nice left. Mates are the only others there